"When You're Riding Down the Highway at Night, And You're Feeling that Wild Turkey's Bite" ZZ Top
Do you plan to put new tolex on the cabinet at some point? If you remove the old tolex, be sure to check the wood joints and inject some wood glue if needed. Uncle Doug has a video or two about applying tolex.
Here is a photo of my 1969 Super Reverb halfway thru removing smoke stains and other grime from the grill cloth.
"When You're Riding Down the Highway at Night, And You're Feeling that Wild Turkey's Bite" ZZ Top
They cut the tolex from the inner parts of the chassis to install the seat vinyl...
You've got a good project amp there. If you plan to buy and install the tilt back legs and the "stops" after you put new tolex on, make a template of where the existing holes are, because the screws for the stops don't penetrate through the sides of the cabinet. A friend had to take precise measurements off of my Super Reverb, because he had covered the old holes with tolex and wanted to find them without poking a bunch of holes in the tolex.
For my mid 70's Super Twin Reverb, I built a separate cabinet for the chassis, because the thing weighed about 100 pounds. Note the monster magnets on the Utah speakers. It could always be put back in the original cabinet by removing a strip of wood I inserted, but my amp isn't very valuable (or desirable).
"When You're Riding Down the Highway at Night, And You're Feeling that Wild Turkey's Bite" ZZ Top
An easy method for marking the location for the tilt-back stops is to insert a ¼" round-head screw into the hole for the stop prior to affixing the Tolex. Once the adhesive has cured, use an X-acto knife to score all the way around the head of the protruding screw then peel off the small disc of Tolex. Remove the screw and the original hole is marked to permit reinstalling the stop.
"When injustice becomes law then rebellion becomes duty."
I've been at this for a while. I know a few tricks.
"When injustice becomes law then rebellion becomes duty."
[QUOTE=Michael Smith;655419]You've got a good project amp there. If you plan to buy and install the tilt back legs and the "stops" after you put new tolex on, make a template of where the existing holes are, because the screws for the stops don't penetrate through the sides of the cabinet. A friend had to take precise measurements off of my Super Reverb, because he had covered the old holes with tolex and wanted to find them without poking a bunch of holes in the tolex.
For my mid 70's Super Twin Reverb, I built a separate cabinet for the chassis, because the thing weighed about 100 pounds. Note the monster magnets on the Utah speakers. It could always be put back in the original cabinet by removing a strip of wood I inserted, but my amp isn't very valuable (or desirable).
[/QGeez Louize that's some huge magnets!! I love the look of the twin reverb but not the weight... Thought about getting a head cabinet for it as ill never sell it. Bet that thing would scream threw a 4x12 cab!
Before it was modified, it had six 6L6 power tubes and power output was 180Watts RMS, 395 Watts peak. Ted Nugent used six of them with the big Showman extension cabinets. It sounds really nice at low to mid volume; the so-called distortion circuit is terrible. I'm toying with the idea of gutting the chassis and making it into an AB763 circuit. I would need an eyelet board and a couple of different preamp tube sockets, as it uses 2 very odd tubes in it's current configuration.
"When You're Riding Down the Highway at Night, And You're Feeling that Wild Turkey's Bite" ZZ Top
Maybe he doesn't check sites like Reverb or E-bay to see what they are selling for. Even if you don't work on the cosmetic things, if you get the chassis in order you will have a great amp. You may be able to get some aluminum flashing at Home Depot to replace the missing drip edge. You only need to worry about the edge that shows being cut straight. You may have to buff it up with some sandpaper or steel wool or perhaps a chemical to get it aged like the pieces you already have. I checked on Ebay and couldn't find the vendor that Phantomman said was selling drip edge extrusions, but I didn't search all that long.
The circuit revision after AB763 was AC568. That used a hybrid fixed/cathode bias scheme. Fender didn't stick with that for long. Then by the mid to late 70's they added master volume controls and came out with things like the Quad Reverb (4 x 12) Super Six Reverb (6 x 10), and monstrosities like my Super Twin Reverb.
"When You're Riding Down the Highway at Night, And You're Feeling that Wild Turkey's Bite" ZZ Top
Compare it to John & George's amps in the Get Back film, as that is the amp they were using.
"When You're Riding Down the Highway at Night, And You're Feeling that Wild Turkey's Bite" ZZ Top
"When You're Riding Down the Highway at Night, And You're Feeling that Wild Turkey's Bite" ZZ Top
I can't seem to find any other writing on the power tubes other than Sovtek. Could they be old stock tubes? They appear to be the Sovtek WXT+ backplate tubes.
"When injustice becomes law then rebellion becomes duty."
I just had a fresh thought on this after watching Psionic Audio repairing a '68 Custom Deluxe Reverb reissue amp. They come with the drip edge like the actual 1968's. Perhaps you can contact Fender to see if they have the drip edge extrusions and corners for sale. Or maybe they could tell you where they get the modern ones made.
"When You're Riding Down the Highway at Night, And You're Feeling that Wild Turkey's Bite" ZZ Top
So I finally got the caps to replace the odd ones, You wouldn't happen to know a way to safely discharge the caps so I can change them out?? I don't have a resistor with a high enough value to discharge them... ALSO retube the amp with NOS GE 12ax7 and 12AT7s JJ 6L6GC's and OMG!! Sweet!!!
"When You're Riding Down the Highway at Night, And You're Feeling that Wild Turkey's Bite" ZZ Top
I saw this answered already, but wanted to add that a lot of times the speaker placement has to do with the size of the cabinet and if there's room for clearance from the transformers.
For example, in my 2x10 Hot Rod Tweed Pro, you have to stagger the two speakers because they won't fit in the existing cab next to one another:
However, in my BFPR repro, I have a 12" speaker in there and it needs to be off to the side to clear the transformers:
Just some extra info for ya'! (oh, and I got that speaker from Phantomman a long time ago. It works well in this amp although not the traditional choice )
"...pray do not imagine that those who make the noise are the only inhabitants of the field;
that, of course, they are many in number; or that, after all, they are other than the little,
shriveled, meagre, hopping, though loud and troublesome, insects of the hour."
-Edmund Burke