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Thread: How to shim a neck

  1. #1
    ZoneFiend photoweborama's Avatar
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    How to shim a neck

    If my Jay Turser Tele does not sell, I'm going to shim the neck because the saddles are almost on the deck, and I think the action can go a bit lower.

    What should I use, and how do you shape the shim? Wood, or cardboard. Shaped to the necks pocket, or just stuck in there.

    Any details would be helpful.

    Thanks.
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  2. #2
    TFF Stage Crew
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    Fly-by-night technique:

    I would start with some heavy paper about the same weight as a business card. Cut a rectangular piece that will go from one screw to the other. Where you put it depends on which way you want the neck angle to go.

  3. #3
    ZoneFiend photoweborama's Avatar
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    Ok, that's what I imagined should be done. If I tilt the neck back, The saddles would have to be raised to compensate. That's where I need to go.

    I have lots of business cards. I never hand them out.. That way if anyone ever stole it, I could just pull the neck off to ID it.
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  4. #4
    Forum Member Williams's Avatar
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    I shimmed up an old MIJ P bass once using the same exact technique and it worked fine and dandy...that is until the weather changed again...

    -Kevin
    GAS: Gear Acquisition Syndrome
    TAS: Telecaster Acquisition Syndrome
    BAS: Bass Acquisition Syndrome
    ...but I don't have SAS: Stratocaster Acquisition Syndrome...not yet anyway...

  5. #5
    Old Tele man
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    re: "...a little here means LOTS there..."

    FYI--some measurements to consider:

    BUSINESS CARD (paper) ~ 0.010" thick
    MATCHBOOK COVER (cardboard) ~ 0.017" thick
    CREDIT CARD (plastic) ~ 0.022" thick

    Since the distance from nut to neck heel is 18.25" and the scale distance is 25.5", adding a 0.010" shim (assuming no compression) should raise bridge height about 0.014":

    Eq.1: (H.shim/H.bridge) = (L.neck/L.scale)

    where:
    H.shim = Shim height (thickness), inches
    H.bridge = Bridge height, inches
    L.neck = Neck length, 18.25"(Tele)
    L.scale = Scale length, 25.5"(Tele)

    (H.bridge) = (0.010"*25.5")/(18.25") = 0.01397 ~ 0.014"

    likewise, a 0.022" shim should raise bridge height about 0.031".

    With a little rearranging, you can also use Eq.1 to figure how thick the shim should be in order to get a known bridge height. For instance, if you want 0.050" more bridge height, the shim should be about 0.036" thick:

    (H.shim) = (0.050"*18.25")/(25.5") = 0.0358 ~ 0.036".

    However, since paper, cardboard and wood typically DO compress, count on about 10% less height due to shim/wood compression, or getting only 90% of the calculated height.
    Last edited by Old Tele man; 01-25-2004 at 02:30 PM.

  6. #6
    ZoneFiend photoweborama's Avatar
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    Re: re: "...a little here means LOTS there..."

    Originally posted by Old Tele man
    FYI--some measurements to consider:
    Wow...
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  7. #7
    Old Tele man
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    like the cliche' goes: "...I've done this before."

  8. #8
    Forum Member Williams's Avatar
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    Apparently you have since I double checked your equation and yes it does work for such a modification... Simple propotional ratios

    -Kevin
    Last edited by Williams; 01-25-2004 at 07:10 PM.
    GAS: Gear Acquisition Syndrome
    TAS: Telecaster Acquisition Syndrome
    BAS: Bass Acquisition Syndrome
    ...but I don't have SAS: Stratocaster Acquisition Syndrome...not yet anyway...

  9. #9
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    Cardboard, yikes !

    I make them out of maple. They are tapered from about zero, to *about* 1/32" at the body end (never had anyone use it the other way around). I use a router, to make a precise tapered, machined shim. It's not a whole lot of fun to do, since I haven't made a special jig yet. So far, I just hold the maple down on a flat surface with double-stick tape, then rig up a way to make my router/planer ride on a slant.
    Last guy that had me make him a shim wanted it 1/16" on both ends, so that was pretty easy, although I didn't agree that he should have one that thick, and the same thickness on both ends, but sometimes you just don't feel like arguing with the customer.
    Other times you do, and then the both of you go at each other using guitar necks as swords. Just kidding.

    I like what Old Tele man wrote, and might have to use that to help me get the shim sizes right on the first try.

    Rob
    Last edited by soapbarstrat; 01-26-2004 at 01:56 AM.

  10. #10
    ZoneFiend photoweborama's Avatar
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    I've always worried about compression and sound transfer with cardboard, and a Maple tapered shim sounds like it would be ideal. I would love to use that if I had access to something like that, and I have no woodworking skills what so ever.

    I was considering using the credit card plastic and was concerned about tapering the end. I think when I do it I will file and taper it as much as possible.
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  11. #11
    Old Tele man
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    CBS/Fender (circa 1966-1971) used 3/8" x 1-3/4" fiberboard shims of differing thicknesses and NONE of them were tapered... They didn't seem to compress all that much...although I'm sure they did somewhat.

    I personally use 0.022" thick plastic cut from an old credit credit (gasoline, Sears, Pep Boys, etc.)...about the right width and cuts easy with a pair of sharp scissors.

  12. #12
    ZoneFiend photoweborama's Avatar
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    Well I think I could do it but the Jay Truser Tele sold on a second chance offer.... So now all I have left are Fenders....
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  13. #13
    Forum Member guitar george's Avatar
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    Both my AV 62 Jazzmaster and 62 Strat came from the factory with shims at the butt end of the neck. The material appears to be some sort of heavy paper similar to a file folder.

    The Strat has one shim, the JM three.

  14. #14
    Old Tele man
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    re: shims

    black-colored fiberboard?

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