Here's a real tool for ya'
Seller off ebay from Japan ships guitar wrapped in three layers of bubble wrap... No box, no support, no brain...
Any suggestions on how to repair this one?
I'm trying to dream up a way to clamp this neck but all the edges are angled opposite to each other.
use the tuner holes to bolt something you can clamp to (with right angles)??
do I look like I know what I'm doing?
I could trace the headstock and build a jig to "capture" the outside angles of the HS and then try to clamp on those pieces sandwiched between the HS.
My only concern is that it will be difficult to see if the seam has moved. I knda' doubtful the I'll be able to get the jig tight enough to only allow movement in one direction.
How much clamp pressure do I need for a solid bond?
My LP Classic was easy in comparison. A couple of pieces of 1" pine sandwiched the HS between two flat surfaces.
This HS has a curved side, two angled sides and an back angle...
Man, that's an ugly break! I'd try to get some dowels in there, to keep the strings from pulling it apart again. Not sure how you'd get the holes straight though...
Glue it and clamp it using rubber padding to grip it.You don't need a lot of pressure, just even pressure. After it sets, drill and dowel it with a tight fit.
Ah, you could use a few long narrow wood screws to hold it while the glue sets, the take those out and drill those holes out for dowels.
I'm still thinking about dowels or maybe getting creative and tracing the headstock and laminating an 1/8" piece of either Maple or Rosewood veneer to the bacj side of the neck with cut outs at the tuners bases so they still sit on the neck.Originally Posted by boobtube21
I checked with Spike (for real) at Warmoth and this neck has an odd/non Fender length which I knew already from comparing to my Fenders. The cut out for the neck and heel run deeper into the body for the 24 Fret neck.
Probably a few Charvel/Kramer/Jackson necks out there that would work but about impossible to find w/out a locking shelf.
Spike also mentioned an Explorer with a three way break he had repaired with tape and rubber bands.
I had thought about the rubber bands from seeing binding "taped" which is why I questioned how much pressure was needed.
Well, here it is:
The pics aren't great but I did manage to keep the the "fine lines" on the logo in line, which is why I was concerend with a jig.
I use weather proof Heavy Duty Tite Bond II which is what held my LP together for 3 years until I sold her.
I'll know in a couple of days if shes "tight" or not.
If this "holds" I'm thinking either dowels or a veneer. Would both be overkill?
You may not even need dowels. It looks like you'd only need or be able to get one good 5/16-ish dowel in there.
A crossgrained veneer might help some.
Looks like you're well on the way!
My main concern was if the rubber bands would exert enough pressure for a good bond.
As best as I can see the logo is lined up and both front and back are flush (no lip) at the joint.
There isn't a whole lot of meat in between the split and tuner holes. I may be able to sneak a dowel, maybe 3/16", in between the G and B tuner. If I moved the dowel towards the D string it would only just start to touch the edge of the split on the bottom side.
I thought the veneer might help because of the tilted back HS. I'm just not certain how much strength an 1/8" would give it.
The tuner placement and close proximity of the shafts to the HS will only allow 1/8" unless I really carve away the veneer to accommodate the shafts. Even using 1/8' veneer I'll need to carve it back some to clearance the shafts.
Now that you have it glued together, you can add some reinforcement.
If you have access to a biscuit jointer or table saw, you can cut a groove into both edges and insert some hard wood splines. I'd recommend epoxy. Once the glue is dry you'll only need to clean up the edges and touch up with some paint.
Just a thought.
I like that spline idea.
Small rotary blade and a couple of hardwood handmade "biscuits" in there.
Didn't think of splines.
That's a really good idea. Thanks!
Spoke to a co-worker today and he has a Biscuit joiner that he's going to bring in for me.
Neck HS is 9/16" thick. How big of a groove should I put in with the joiner and to what depth?
On the tuner side ther is only 1/4" to the tuner holes. Can I go beyond the tuner holes with out digging out the wood around the holes and causing further problems or should I stop at the or before the holes?
The underside of the neck is concave or bowed inward towards the top of the neck. How should I handle that?
The underside is the side where I could get a larger biscuit in as there is more meat before the tuner holes come into play.
You can prolly use the jointer from the top edge using the flat side to keep the tool/cut even and parallel to the front face. The jointer likely has a depth stop, set it for 1/4-3/8 deep t he hand shape your plugs to the slots once they are done.
You can cut right through the holes and put in the half moon shaped plugs and igone the tuner holes til it's dry, then just drill through 'em with the same size bit.
Remember that high speed drilling/cutting is your friend. rev high and move slow. Let the tool do the owrk and you won't split the wood. barely reving the tool is how you split wood.
Thanks WIlko.
What about the width of the cut/biscuit? 1/4" ???
I'll post some biscuits in progress shots once I get the tool in hand.
The cutter probably has a blade that's about 1/8" IIRC. (I don't have one)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biscuit_joiner
Well here she is...
I'm going to test it with some .9s and play it for a while to make sure the repair is solid before I spend any time finishing it.
WIiko, thanks for the home made biscuit suggestion. The long biscuit I made myself and I feel it was a better fit than the factory biscuit I used on the smaller join.
I'll probably refin the whole HS except the front if it holds.
Thanks for everyones' help.
Looks pretty smart there DanD. Should hold up to anything you can throw at it. Shame it had to arrive the way it did, but you rescued it.
AND...you did it yourself!!
You're most gracious Fedora. Thanks for the kind words.
She's strung up now and so far, so good.
The active FGI pups sound like active pups to me, not really my cup o' Joe. But I'll give 'em some time until I'm sure the neck is going to hold and then swap if I ain't likin' 'em.
I've got a Gold and Silver Lace Sensor set I'm not using so they may find their way into this one.
She plays ok. It's been a long time since I've had a "shred neck" guitar. The 24 fret neck is really the reason I picked her up to begin with.
Thanks again for all the help. It was priceless!
Damn, a headstock repair doesn't get much better than that, does it? You even nailed the logo, it looks like it lined up perfectly from here! Nice job!
Well done.
Looks great.
I have decided to be happy because it's good for my health.
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