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Thread: Floating Bridge

  1. #1
    Forum Member brianf's Avatar
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    Floating Bridge

    I know we have beat this topic to death but one more try.

    I tend to only use a trem 15% of the time and then only push down on it. Never pull up.

    For stability should I have it flush and use 5 springs?

    I'm going to get the springs tomorrow and experiment but was wondering what you all do.

    brianf
    Oh Man!!! I never knew Fender made amps too!!!

  2. #2
    Forum Member Marcondo's Avatar
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    I have had the best luck with stability using 3 springs set like this.

    /|\

    Then I adjust the back of the bridge so it rests against the body lightly but if you do a full step bend on the 14th fret of the G string the bridge just raises slightly.

    Be sure the nut slots are nice and clean and the strings move freely and then lube the nut slots with Radio Shack Teflon oil they sell it as precision oiler put a drop on top of the saddles where the strings touch and I can easily use the tremelo for 1 1/2 hours without a tuneup.

    Another trick to help with stability is to tighten all 6 screws that hold the bridge down good and snug then loosen up the inner 4 just a tad this makes the bridge pivot easier and return to pitch easier.

    I have no experience at all with the 2 post AM STD bridge so these instructions are really ment for the vintage type bridge.

  3. #3
    Forum Member brianf's Avatar
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    I should have mentioned. 2000 Am. Dlx. Fat Strat. 2 post with LSR Nut.

    I'm going to experiment with the extra springs. I'm just curious as to what everybody here does.

    Thanks

    brianf
    Oh Man!!! I never knew Fender made amps too!!!

  4. #4
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    I have a 94 Am std Strat with an added roller nut. My handle used to be blustrat94 but that's another boring story. Anyway, I had a roller nut and Graph Tech saddles installed because the guitar would NOT stay in tune when I used the bar. If I knew then what I know now I would have tried re-working the nut and maybe left the saddles alone, BUT the guitar will stay in tune now with considerable downward whammy abuse, as long as I bring the trem back to its starting point. The springs are stock; I only use three and have no problems. I honestly don't understand the point of having five springs, and more than one tech has warned me away from it. But obviously some, like SRV, used five with success. And why not experiment? I keep the bridge just slightly floating. Maybe 1/16th off the body.
    I don't see the harm in trying 5 springs, because if you don't bend up anyway you should only have to loosen the claw screws to compensate for the bridge height. Best of luck, and I hope this helps.

  5. #5
    Forum Member Marcondo's Avatar
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    SRV used the 5 springs because his strings were so big he needed the extra springs to match the tension of the strings.

    There is a slightly different tone when floating as compared to flat against the body.

  6. #6
    Forum Member brianf's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Marcondo

    There is a slightly different tone when floating as compared to flat against the body.
    I am curious to see if I can notice this difference.

    brianf
    Oh Man!!! I never knew Fender made amps too!!!

  7. #7
    Forum Member LightninBoy's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tip on the Teflon Marcondo, I have a can of it in my garage and never thought about using it for that - I've always just scraped some lead from a pencil into the slots but I'll try that. I personally use 5 springs in the back. I'm playing 11-52's now and find that all 5 work best in keeping the bridge against the body...
    "The lord will take two things so much alike that he would not mind choosing from them blindfold - and then for a great jest he will allow the slaves to choose."

  8. #8
    Forum Member brianf's Avatar
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    Originally posted by LightninBoy
    Thanks for the tip on the Teflon Marcondo, I have a can of it in my garage and never thought about using it for that - I've always just scraped some lead from a pencil into the slots but I'll try that. I personally use 5 springs in the back. I'm playing 11-52's now and find that all 5 work best in keeping the bridge against the body...

    Try this stuff. It works great!

    http://www.guitaristonly.com/

    brianf
    Oh Man!!! I never knew Fender made amps too!!!

  9. #9
    Forum Member LightninBoy's Avatar
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    Thanks Brian, I'll try that out if the Teflon doesn't do the trick...
    "The lord will take two things so much alike that he would not mind choosing from them blindfold - and then for a great jest he will allow the slaves to choose."

  10. #10
    Forum Member Don's Avatar
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    I use 3 springs set up like Marcondo suggested.

    I set mine a little tighter to the body though.

    Mine's setup so that the bridge doesn't raise when I bend 1-1/2 steps. The trem action isn't as smooth, but I like a real stable feeling setup.

    I've done this with both 10 and 11s.

    My Strats have vintage style bridges with the outside 2 screws raised to where they won't interfere with bridge movement and the inside 4 screws a little higher.

    I use a little teflon grease and even my '57 with original machine heads stays in tune.

    I used to set up my Am. Std. And Strat Plus the same way.

  11. #11
    Forum Member concert410's Avatar
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    I keep my bridges flush because I don't like the whole guitar to be wasted if I break a string. I know I can get to the next song and change guitars. I have a 72' RI with the vintage trem and I have no tuning issues. I also have an American Deluxe with two post trem and LSR nut and I set it up the same way with no problems. Same with my American Standard..... All have 3 springs.

  12. #12
    Forum Member brianf's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. I just got my springs so I'll be experimenting over the weekend.

    brianf
    Oh Man!!! I never knew Fender made amps too!!!

  13. #13
    Forum Member yobdlog's Avatar
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    I have my two vintage type trems set up so their is a 'hair' of float left. I have four springs and use .10-.50 gauge strings on both of them. I like leaving just a tad a space left for the trem to float a bit. It helps me do some light effects by pressing my palm on the bridge and wiggling it...it gives a very nice and big vibrato type of effect...it also adds a touch of sponginess to the the overall sound of the guitar.

    I do have an american standard that is set up with 5 springs and the trem is flat on the body and the string guage is .11-.52. That one is the harder funk and chunk player cuz the resonance is snappy.

    By the way...combine the two lube jobs above...I like doing that and it works well and lasts long too.

    Go to the hardware store and get graphite powder (10 oz for 3 bucks) and silicon lubricant (12 oz for 4 bucks) and for under $10.00 you have a lifetime supply of excellent nut lube (<---- I said nut lube!!)

    Mix a bit of graphite powder with the silicon lubricant...then take a toothpick and add it to the slots and the graphite will stay adhered to the nut for a lot longer than with one or the other by itself. It lasts about 10-12 string changes for me before having to re-apply a bit...and it works beautifully well and you have enough for a very long time for just 10 bucks.

    ;)

  14. #14
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    I have a vintage bridge with 4 springs, flush to the body, and it works best for me.
    I had experimented the following, always with 10-46's:

    - 3 springs, flush to the body: very smooth tremolo action, had to somewhat overtighten the spring retainer, tremolo would raise significantly on bends, some tuning problems, good tone.

    - 3 springs, floating tremolo: as above, tremolo would raise less(!), perceivable difference in tone, less sustain.

    - 5 springs, flush to the body: no tremolo raise on bends, good tone, too stiff tremolo action.

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