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Thread: Desoldering tips?

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    Desoldering tips?

    Since I'm about to do some serious desoldering, undoing the mess the local "guitar tech" made in attempting to install my new pots and pickups, I could use some advice on tools and techniques.

    Should I use a desoldering bulb or desoldering braid? Or both? I'd like to get all the components as clean as possible before I reinstall everything.

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    Re: Desoldering tips?

    Probably could use both. For large solder amounts the bulb, and then use the braid to really clean the connections. I have a spring loaded one that's a little easier to use then the kind with the squeeze bulb. For me at least, releasing the bulb to remove the solder always seemed to move it from where I wanted.

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    Forum Member Don's Avatar
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    Re: Desoldering tips?

    I agree with JAM.

    The spring loaded desoldering vacuum is more effective than a bulb and easier to use.

    You can use desoldering braid if you want everything to look almost new. You probably won't need to bother with that though.

    Desoldering braid requires a fair amount of heat. Be careful not to overheat the pots and switch.

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    Re: Desoldering tips?

    Thanks, guys. I think I'll spring for the vacuum and some braid. I want to get everything as close to new-looking as possible before I wire everything back up, because I'm One of Those People.

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    Re: Desoldering tips?

    The spring-loaded 'solder sucker' and braid is pretty much what I use.

    Solder suckers are great for doing work on older Fenders, Traynors, Ampegs, and Guilds where stuff is put on eyelet boards. It's also good for pots and switches.

    Braid is really handy for more deliacate stuff, like PC boards, but you can use it for pots and switches too. If you use it for eyelet boards, you'll go through a lot of it in a hurry.
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    Re: Desoldering tips?

    Pardon my ignorance, but I love to learn.

    What is the Braid and how is it used?

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    Re: Desoldering tips?

    When a hot braided metal remover is used, the lead (solder) will wick up into it, just like hot wax up a wick. It just sucks it right up.

    I find that when rewiring a guitar, there is either enough solder hanging around to not need to remove it. Just use it where it sits.

    You will need to add solder ocassionally.

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    Re: Desoldering tips?

    what material is the braid made of?

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    Forum Member Wilko's Avatar
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    Re: Desoldering tips?

    Pretty sure they are stainless steel

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    Re: Desoldering tips?

    Quote Originally Posted by refriedwhiskey View Post
    Thanks, guys. I think I'll spring for the vacuum and some braid. I want to get everything as close to new-looking as possible before I wire everything back up, because I'm One of Those People.
    Actually, I tend not to desolder first unless I need to. Unless there's _way_ too much solder on a joint, or it's a dry joint (i.e. not a clean and solid connection) I'll just let the old solder be the tinning for the new joint.

    Why? Because overall it means less heating of the joints. The only way you are likely to ruin anything is applying too much heat, for too long, one too many times.

    Sometimes if there ends up being a bigger blob of molten solder on a joint than is helpful, I'll just let the tip of the soldering iron itself carry some of it off.

    It's all point-to-point wiring in a guitar, so there's a lot more leeway. On a circuit board, desoldering is more of issue, as too much solder can cause bridging problems between traces, etc.

    Anyway, a potential trade-off you may wish to consider before getting too "neat-freaky" about the job. Neat is nice, but not at the cost of damaged components.

    -Mark

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    Re: Desoldering tips?

    Quote Originally Posted by javlib View Post
    what material is the braid made of?
    Not sure of the metal, but it's loaded with flux.
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    Re: Desoldering tips?

    and when resoldering.......

    don't use rosin core solder......

    silver solder is what was recommended to me.......
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    Re: Desoldering tips?

    Quote Originally Posted by FrankJohnson View Post
    and when resoldering.......

    don't use rosin core solder......

    silver solder is what was recommended to me.......
    Ummm .... You need to use some sort of rosin core solder, whether it is 60/40 Tin-Lead or Silver-bearing (62% Tin, 36% Lead, 2% Silver). Silver solder is used in jewelry making/repair and has much too high a melting point for electronics - you would need a blow torch.

    I would recommend using good ol' rosin core 60/40 tin-lead. The silver-bearing solder is recommended for surface mount printed wiring board assembly and has no real advantage for point to point wiring. Guitar guts are definately not surface-mount.

    As far as desoldering braid - the stuff I get from the Shack is copper braid, no flux on it. Just stick an end of it over the place you want to cleanup, place the soldering tip on top and watch the solder wick into it.
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    Forum Member NTBluesGuitar's Avatar
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    Re: Desoldering tips?

    I use solder braid...made of copper.
    "...pray do not imagine that those who make the noise are the only inhabitants of the field;
    that, of course, they are many in number; or that, after all, they are other than the little,
    shriveled, meagre, hopping, though loud and troublesome, insects of the hour."

    -Edmund Burke

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    Forum Member Don's Avatar
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    Re: Desoldering tips?

    Quote Originally Posted by FrankJohnson View Post
    and when resoldering.......

    don't use rosin core solder......

    silver solder is what was recommended to me.......
    Sliver solder is fine.

    I use Radio Shack 60/40 .032 diameter rosin core solder. It's perfect for the job.
    I don't even own flux. I have never needed separate flux in 30 years of doing this stuff.
    Too much flux is a bad thing and don't use ever plumbing flux.

  16. #16
    Forum Member Kap'n's Avatar
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    Re: Desoldering tips?

    Flux is handy for soldering to the back of pots, and chassis grounds. That's about all you'll need it for.
    Several guitars in different colors
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    Re: Desoldering tips?

    The de-solder braid is available in different widths. I sometimes use wider braid on the Fender eyelets if I want to really get all the solder out. The smaller width is better for PCBs.

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    Re: Desoldering tips?

    I think the tip should be; Don't use acid core solder, use rosin core instead.

    As for desoldering, I also use the spring type vacuum for guitars and other PTP stuff. For most circuit boards (especially fragile ones), I'll use the copper braid so that I don't accidentially lift the solder pads. If I find I'll be doing a whole lot of desoldering, I'll use the dedicated desoldering workstation which has a low suction vacuum operated by a footswitch (certainly not a requirement for rewiring a guitar).
    POO DAT!!!

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    Re: Desoldering tips?

    Thanks for all the info and advice, y'all. Looks like it may be the weekend before I can do the desoldering and reinstall the pickups, but now I'm convinced I can do it.

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    Re: Desoldering tips?

    Quote Originally Posted by javlib View Post
    what material is the braid made of?
    Copper... In a pinch, I've made my own with twisted stranded copper wire... It's all I use.

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    Re: Desoldering tips?

    What's the best technique for soldering connections and large connections (ground connections) on a pot? Should I get flux, or should I put a nice glob of solder and stick all the wires connected to it? It appears that my original wiring had flux on it before it was soldered as there is discoloration, or can it just be done with a normal setting soldering iron (25watt is what I have) and the standard solder?

    I'm replacing the components in my guitar, so I can afford to test it out on the old pots before using the new ones...

  22. #22
    Forum Member Mesotech's Avatar
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    Re: Desoldering tips?

    I've done it with a 30w iron, but it's easier if using something a little larger (40~60w iron) with a flat wide tip. Small irons tend to put prolonged heat to the inside of the pot, which can damage it. You really want it to get hot quick and cool down quick.

    I would avoid using a soldering gun, but others may recommend them. My issue with them is that they can get things too hot, and damage the interior of the pot. You're basically safer taking the happy medium path.

    Standard solder is fine. It will contain a small amount of flux, which is what you're most likely seeing on the old pots. The hotter you get it, the more standard solder will discolor. You shouldn't need any "extra" flux.
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