I just picked up one of these pedals for $50 bucks. Its an origional, not a reissue. Are these true bypass? Man sure is a sweet sounding pedal..more organic than my tube screamers, and seems to really like my amps, and doesn`t change the `Strattyness` of my Strat.
CT.
I have an old script-logo one that I picked-up for about $50 a few years ago as well. I love it. I have a re-issue one as well because I didn't want to use the old one live a lot. But they do have a sweet tone too them. I've never used mine with a Strat or even any of my Duo-Sonic II's...maybe I'll have to experiment tonight.Originally Posted by CocoTone
As far as the by-pass question goes...I have no idea.
-Scott.
I do not believe the D+ is true bypass.
But if it sounds good, who cares.
I really think the whole "it's gotta be true bypass" thing is a bit overblown.
A cheesy cord will degrade tone more than a well designed buffer.
Here lies the first pedal I ever bought.
It was about 30 years ago and it is, or was a Script logo
I still have it but havent used it in quite some time.
they are buffered bypass. which is fine cause if you run all true bypass one buffered effect isn't going to make a difference. nice score.
"don't worry, i'm a professional!"
I used it at last night`s. It indeed does have a really nice lead tone, but noisy as hell!! I do notice a loss of highs when in bypass, and that bugs me, as I like my cleans to be crisp, and clear, but the lead tone is a nice flavour to the others that I now use.
CT.
Get a true bypass box like one from http://www.loop-master.com and then it'll definitely be true bypass.
Check this website out. I believe there's info on how to rewire to make it into a true bypass FWIW
http://www.analogman.com/
Man, thats what i love about this Forum!! Prompt, informative answers, and NO DICKHEADS!!
CT.
Should I leave?
Another place for true-bypass boxes is:
http://www.loooper.com
Several guitars in different colors
Things to make them fuzzy
Things to make them louder
orange picks
Innerestin`,,,,anyone here use one of these puppies??
CT.
After doing some online snoopin`, this pedal should be easy to bypass,,,just replace the switch!!! ANyone got a wiring schemo for me??
CT.
After doing some online snoopin`, this pedal should be easy to bypass,,,just replace the switch!!! Anyone got a wiring schemo for me??
CT.
I've got a mini-LOOOPER. It works well. I used to use it for my DG-Stomp, but it's on the 'bay right now, so I haven't used it in a while.Innerestin`,,,,anyone here use one of these puppies??
CT.
The guy's backordered pretty heavilly. I waited 4-weeks, I think for mine. However, they're all "cooked to order" so you get exactly what you want. I got a purple one with a blue LED. Like I said, I'm not using it now, but I KNOW I'll buy some tone-sucking bypass pedal at some point, and I'll have it.
Several guitars in different colors
Things to make them fuzzy
Things to make them louder
orange picks
The D+ is not true bypass, nor is it buffered. The input of the pedal is always connected to the effects circuit, while the output of the circuit and the input. It uses a SPDT switch which can easily replaced with a DPDT one if desired. See http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/FAQ.html , "How do I wire a DPDT switch".
"If you wind up with a boring, miserable life because you listened to your mom, your dad, your teacher, your priest, or some guy on TV telling you how to do your shit, then YOU DESERVE IT."
- Frank Zappa -
Homer is correct. I've built quite a few Dist. Plus'. The originals and the reissues are non-truebypass. The script and block logo are easy to mod to true bypass. Relace the SPDT with a Carling 316pp DPDT, and rewire. Led models require a 3PDT switch for true bypass. The original non-LED script and block logos have just 6 capacitors, 7 resistors, 2 diodes, and one 741 IC. No buffers, input or output. The only change between the originals and the reissues (besides the pcb mounted components), is the change from germanium 1N270 diodes to silicon 4148 diodes and a 10pf cap across the diodes to help smooth the harsher highs that the 4148's give. Easy to mod a reissue back to script or block logo specs.
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/...o_dpdt_std.gif
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/..._input_grd.gif
Last edited by Fret Wire; 07-09-2004 at 11:35 PM. Reason: adding links
The job`s done, and this pedal is just awesome. Nice additional flavour to my pedal board. Works well with my Strat, and sounds killer with P90`s,,,TB you listenin`??
CT.
Have a modded Dist + pedal (added a little more low end). I used it for songs where I needed touch sensitive quiet/ loud songs.
"Power don't come from a badge or a gun. Power comes from lying. Lying big and gettin' the whole damn world to play along with you. Once you've got everybody agreeing with what they know in their hearts ain't true, you've got 'em by the balls."
Senator Roark - Sin City
These are such an under-rated pedal, and cheap to find. I`m surprised that more guys don`t use them.They`re a little bit noisy, but a nice fat OD.I `m starting to use it as much as my MJMBlues Devil, and it`s replaced my TS9?808 in the pedalboard!!
CT.
I used to love mine, but prefer amp distortion nowadays. It's the first pedal I bought (way back in 82), so I keep it for sentimental reasons more than anything.
I love amp distortion too, but when your first row is 6 feet away, it isn`t always possible!!
CT.
What, are you afraid of a little wincing? :hee
Naw,,I just don`t like it when they leave!!! Neither does the venue owner!!
CT.
The pedal so nice, I had to buy it twice.
Great pedal for classic rock!
I second that one!!!The pedal so nice, I had to buy it twice.
Great pedal for classic rock!
CT.
Found another one of these locally for a nice price and picked it up. This one is cleaner than the other ones I own and the guy still had the original box. The pot codes date it at 1980 and it works like a charm too........
I by installed a bypass switch, but I`m still getting considerable treble loss when bypassed. Any ideas?? I love the pedal, but won`t put up with signal degradation.
CT.
CT, you sure you wired it right? If you have an ohm meter you can check. Measure the tip on the input to the tip on the output, if it is true bypass then it should read open. If it reads like 1 Meg ohm or greater you have a buffered bypass pedal. Anything lower and the guitar signal is still presented to the input of the circuit and you can suffer some signal loss.
When do you have the signal degradation, just when bypassed, just when on, or all of the time?
Only bypassed. I was told that this pedal can be modded with a new switch, and thats what I ve done. Maybe I did wire it wrong, would it still work tho??
CT.
Thankyou!!! I`ll check it tomorrow!!
CT.
Ok,checked and re-checked my wiring to the switch and everything is as it shoulde be. So why am I getting so much signal degradation with TB??? I`m baffled now. Anyone??
CT.
The easiest answer might sound a little stupid... but do you have any other pedals in line (maybe a wah in front of it) or just the D+, and how long are your cables? Suppose you're playing a TB pedal with two 20 ft cables between guitar, pedal and amp. Everything's fine when you play the pedal, but as soon as you (true!) bypass the pedal, you've got 40 ft of unbuffered cable capacity, which causes a huge signal loss.
Pete Cornish has an interesting article on his website about the drawbacks of TB; it's a bit techy, but worth a read
http://www.petecornish.co.uk/case_ag...ue_bypass.html
"If you wind up with a boring, miserable life because you listened to your mom, your dad, your teacher, your priest, or some guy on TV telling you how to do your shit, then YOU DESERVE IT."
- Frank Zappa -
Its in a pedalboard with a few other pedals. I`ve taken the time to make sure I don`t have miles of cable, and in addition, all I did was place it in the position my TS9 was, and instant signal loss. Maybe I`ll play around with positioning, otherwise I`m baffled!!! Great sounding pedal, but I just caint live with the loss. Is the TS buffered??
CT.
yep, the TS is buffered. What pedals are in front and after the D+?
"If you wind up with a boring, miserable life because you listened to your mom, your dad, your teacher, your priest, or some guy on TV telling you how to do your shit, then YOU DESERVE IT."
- Frank Zappa -
Order is this,,London Fuzz, to V847 modded for true bypass, to Blues Devil OD, to Dist+(usually a modded TS9 in this position), to CE2, into a Digitech delay, to ABC switch, to tuner and amps.
I get quite a bit of noise I suspect from the delay, but otherwise it is good clean.
CT.
I'd still think your problem is covered in Pete Cornish's article. All of your pedals up to the CE2 are true bypass pedals; that leaves your guitar cord plus four patch cords between your guitar and the first buffered pedal. It's pretty much a wild guess, but you're probably having at least 7-10 feet of cord between your guitar and the CE2 (when all other boxes are on bypass). Depending on the quality this already can give enough cable capacity to achieve a notable signal loss.
Have you tried just Guitar, the D+ and an amp with rather short cords to make sure the D+ is to blame? Also, if you own a multimeter you might want to test the switch you used; maybe it's a bad switch that doesn't close perfectly, thus producing some resistance to the signal.
That's about all ideas I have so far, sorry. Debugging noise and signal loss can be a real PITA on a multiple fx setup....
"If you wind up with a boring, miserable life because you listened to your mom, your dad, your teacher, your priest, or some guy on TV telling you how to do your shit, then YOU DESERVE IT."
- Frank Zappa -
oh one more thing came to my mind... I remember you said it wasn't a RI, but a vintage unit. Did you notice this signal loss only after changing the switch? If not, maybe there's something borked with the jacks, broken or "cold" solder joints or something. Again, just a wild guess.
"If you wind up with a boring, miserable life because you listened to your mom, your dad, your teacher, your priest, or some guy on TV telling you how to do your shit, then YOU DESERVE IT."
- Frank Zappa -
Homer, you hit it again. Coco, it's a wiring (likely a ground) or solder joint problem. The wiring in an older unit will get brittle, separate from connections, and sometimes develop breaks in it's midlength.
Thanx Guyz! I`ll crack a couple o` beers this evening and go ove rthe whole smozzle. I`ll keep ya`ll posted.
CT.
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