Aluminum Archtop Build

I'm learning as I go. The Epi confirmed I have too much shape and I can't see trying to make that panel part of the project. It was never about getting it done, it's more about the process and learning to do it the best I can. I can't help thinking about doing more than one, or doing a different shape and how I could handle it without doing it all manually. That's part of the appeal -- keeping the creative side engaged.

Things are going to move quicker now, unless I get a job or they sell the building.....Bill

Just fyi: I wouldn't necessarily worry too much about the "flare" to the horns, unless you want to... There's a fairly well documented evolution (or at least variation) from year to year on the iconic/seminal year examples of 335s when it comes to both horn shape and flare of the "Mouse Ears". Wider can leave more hand-room when accessing the upper frets if that's an issue (depending on things like the size of the neck heel), but Gibson's offerings did vary in the Ears over the years.

To learn more, much of the variety is documented here:
http://www.provide.net/~cfh/gibson4.html
and
http://www.es-335.net/

Your shape definitely looks in the ballpark to my eye... fwiw.

Damn. This is an interesting and educational thread. I learn a bit from just about any thread about a traditional guitar build...I'm learning a ton of stuff I never knew from this aluminum archtop build!

(I didn't even know that thing was called an English Wheel, and you're building your own to suit your needs! I'd seen 'em used on TV several times, on hotrod shows and maybe American Chopper, but didn't know what they were called. I've always found it kinda mesmerizing. :D)

(OA: That aerobatic Bonanza...tell me it wasn't a V-tail! :confused: )

Thanks. I'm not too worried about the horns but I would have made them bigger like the Dot if I had this reference guitar at the beginning.

I had known about the "Mikey Mouse" change and I'd be willing to bet the tooling at each factory is slightly different these days. Mine is what it is and it's very close to my purchased drawing. Hey, it's a prototype! The production ones will be even better!!

Thanks for the helpful links. Bookmarked.........Bill

Quote:

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Originally Posted by elicross

......I didn't even know that thing was called an English Wheel, and you're building your own to suit your needs!......(OA: That aerobatic Bonanza...tell me it wasn't a V-tail!......

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That reminds me, I never posted a photo of the little Ewheel;

http://www.pbase.com/cwilliamrose/im...8085/large.jpg
It works pretty good. I'll someday make one with the wheels mounted 90° to this one and I may get some more bearings so I can round the OD races more than I did these. I was able to get into some tight spots using it.

I also modified my big Ewheel to offset the top anvil such that the edge is close to centered on the bottom anvil. That works well in some situations too. I'd like to make a screw operated slide so I can move the top anvil more easily and have more than just two positions.

http://www.pbase.com/cwilliamrose/im...8447/large.jpg
Some guys make offset lower anvils but this was quicker and cheaper.

I'm really happy you're getting something from this thread. It has been fun for me so far........Bill

Bill...anymore updates?

Thanks for asking. Yes, there have been some small steps forward but my work was interrupted by getting called back to my job in October. That's a very good thing but my free time isn't what it used to be. I come in on weekends with a long list of things to work on and the build seems to be a B priority on the list.

I do have two keeper panels that need a little nit picking to get them as smooth as they need to be to proceed to the next step. One is basically there, the other needs some work -- mainly in the area of the horns.

My original idea of using a rubber hydroform process for the horns worked well but because it requires that area to be annealed the transition was a problem. There is a boundary between the annealed and non-annealed areas and they react very differently to being worked with the E-wheel. You get much more movement where the metal is soft. The two keeper panels are not annealed and I'm doing the horns by hand. I've been using hammers, chasing tools, and my mini E-wheel but it's tedious due the the small area involved.

I also learned a lesson on keeping the E-wheel clean. I have had to wet sand the entire surface because there are some shallow dent marks caused by dirt on the wheel. There's even a repeating pattern of marks which confirms something was stuck the the surface of the upper wheel and it stayed there for a number of passes. This is an extra step that shouldn't have been necessary.

So, it's moving forward slowly as I get a bit of time to work on it. I'm disappointed I haven't been able to devote more of my time to this project. I am learning to say "no" to people wanting to get me involved in their projects but for some reason I can't seem to do that with the boss or with my wife. Kathy recently found work after 23 months of searching and she's putting in a ton of hours every week. I try to make sure her brief amount of time off isn't taken up with things I can help her get done.

I'll try to put an update together when I get both top/back panels ready to weld.

..............Bill

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cwilliamrose

Kathy recently found work after 23 months of searching and she's putting in a ton of hours every week.

..............Bill

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EXCELLENT!!

I would have put a wooden block on the inside to help reduce feedback a tad.

I'm comfortable admitting I'm not experienced enough to outguess what it will sound like or what problems it might have. I'm not putting F holes in the top but beyond that it's a pretty much what it would be as a wood body. There's more structure than a ES-330 and more interior volume than a ES-335.

I could stuff it if there was a major feedback issue. There might be some things in the pickup design that would help feedback. Or maybe a box around the pickups to isolate them from the interior volume would be effective. I'll try to solve the problems after they become apparent. It may turn out to be a poor instrument and that's OK -- live and learn.