changing strings with frustration
ok, I've never had a problem with putting new strings on my strat before.
well, I had the strings on my guitar for nearly 6 months, the 4th one finally broke.
Tonight, I was looking forward to playing my strat so I decided to put some strings on and intonate it (I also removed a spring from the back of the guitar).
I put the 6th and 5th string on, no problems. I get to the 4th string, I put it on and when I pluck it, its buzzing. the string is really close to the 1st,2nd,3rd & 4th fret. I tried rasing the saddle, it works but the string is higher than the others.
Is there something wrong with the frets or the nut? Is it ok to have the string higher than all the others?
I gave up, I've only got the 4th, 5th and 6th string put on so far.
Strings I'm using are EB Regular slinkys (10-46)
Re: changing strings with frustration
No, no, no!!! Don't mess with your saddles with only some of the strings on the guitar!!!
You have to put ALL of the strings on a Strat before you can be sure there's a problem with it.
Taking off all the strings at once causes the trem block to drop back because the only tension on it is the springs. Having all of your strings on creates the balance between the string tension and the spring tension.
With any guitar, but ESPECIALLY with Strats or other trem guitars, when you change your strings (which you should do more than once every 6 months if you play it regularly!), change one at a time.
I.E., remove the low E and then replace it, tuning it to pitch. Next remove the low A an replace it, tuning it to pitch. Complete the process for each string.* FINISH THE PROCESS... then check final tuning, etc.
Now... you said you removed a spring, so that will require some tweaking once all the strings are on (including intonation being a good idea), but you can't even begin to tweak anything until all your strings are on the guitar and at pitch. This is probably why this is happening to you and never did before during string changes. I generally suggest adding/removing springs with the strings still on--unless you already have your trem set flush to the deck, you have to hold the trem up with the "whammy bar" and that's a little tricky while trying to add or remove the spring at the same time, but it allows you to RETUNE, then make the necessary adjustments to the claw while constantly checking and retuning to pitch, so you can again achieve the trem block position/balance you like.
Again, you'd always want to intonate after a spring add/remove, and some saddle adjustment (or sometimes neck adjustment/shim) might be needed, but either way you can't decide any of those things with a partially strung guitar.
Try to put your saddle(s) back where they were and get all the strings on there at pitch, then check it out and let us know. Good luck!!! :smile:
(* Note--I actually change them in this order: D, G, A, B, Low E, High E--inside working out, but that doesn't matter as much as being sure you do one at a time, at least on a Strat-type guitar)
Re: changing strings with frustration
Quote:
Originally Posted by
pc
Note--I actually change them in this order: D, G, A, B, Low E, High E--inside working out
Just curious... why?
Re: changing strings with frustration
I string mine the same way,from the middle out to keep
the tension more even..
Re: changing strings with frustration
Re: changing strings with frustration
Quote:
Originally Posted by
pc
No, no, no!!! Don't mess with your saddles with only some of the strings on the guitar!!!
You have to put ALL of the strings on a Strat before you can be sure there's a problem with it.
Taking off all the strings at once causes the trem block to drop back because the only tension on it is the springs. Having all of your strings on creates the balance between the string tension and the spring tension.
With any guitar, but ESPECIALLY with Strats or other trem guitars, when you change your strings (which you should do more than once every 6 months if you play it regularly!), change one at a time.
I.E., remove the low E and then replace it, tuning it to pitch. Next remove the low A an replace it, tuning it to pitch. Complete the process for each string.* FINISH THE PROCESS... then check final tuning, etc.
Now... you said you removed a spring, so that will require some tweaking once all the strings are on (including intonation being a good idea), but you can't even begin to tweak anything until all your strings are on the guitar and at pitch. This is probably why this is happening to you and never did before during string changes. I generally suggest adding/removing springs with the strings still on--unless you already have your trem set flush to the deck, you have to hold the trem up with the "whammy bar" and that's a little tricky while trying to add or remove the spring at the same time, but it allows you to RETUNE, then make the necessary adjustments to the claw while constantly checking and retuning to pitch, so you can again achieve the trem block position/balance you like.
Again, you'd always want to intonate after a spring add/remove, and some saddle adjustment (or sometimes neck adjustment/shim) might be needed, but either way you can't decide any of those things with a partially strung guitar.
Try to put your saddle(s) back where they were and get all the strings on there at pitch, then check it out and let us know. Good luck!!! :smile:
(* Note--I actually change them in this order: D, G, A, B, Low E, High E--inside working out, but that doesn't matter as much as being sure you do one at a time, at least on a Strat-type guitar)
Thanks for your reply :smile:
I ended up putting all the strings back on, I fixed the saddle on the 4th string, the 4th string is ok now (Although I had to raise the saddle so the string is slightly higher than the others). I tuned it up and Intonated it, It actually intonated better than it did last time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
fezz parka
pc's right, with a trem Strat you have to have all the strings on, at pitch, before you start messing with your saddles for string height. And if you didn't adjust the claw after removing the spring, your bridge is going to be floating like crazy, and you action will be slightly higher. I'm curious, how many springs were you using, and why did you remove one?
I had 5 springs on before, took one out because I broke my trem bar due to 5 springs putting pressure on the bar, bending it then the bar snapped. So its now got 4 springs and next time I go to the music store, I am going to get a new bar (so I can do some VH stuff)
Also, The bridge is set up not to float (I prefer it that way) :smile:
Re: changing strings with frustration
Quote:
Originally Posted by
slashrox
I had 5 springs on before, took one out because I broke my trem bar due to 5 springs putting pressure on the bar, bending it then the bar snapped.
That's probably not due to having all five springs in there. It's probably due to having the spring claw cranked all the way down with five springs in there.
Re: changing strings with frustration
I use 4 or 5, I don't remember how many. But I keep the claw loose enough that it floats a bit.
I think it gives more stability when bending strings against a static note.
Re: changing strings with frustration
the 4th string still has a bit of a buzz but I think I'll leave it till next Wednesday, Might take it to the local store and get it set up. Hopefully that will fix things?
