Solid-mahogany Strat-style neck . . .

[Dan Erlewine]

. . . a good and very talented friend made me somthing that he heard me wishing for: A fat 50's-style Strat-style neck from solid mahogany. It has a maple "skunkstripe" and the playing surface is, following true "reverse-maple-neck" rules the very mahogany of the neck.

I am about to fret it and get it onto something. I think I will like it alot. He chose a very dense hard piece of mahogany that rings brilliantly. I have always loved mahogany. In acoustic guitars, Martin D-18s and Gibson J-35s or JM-45s;

In electrics I love Gibson's best models with mahogany necks. Fender has only rarely tried this. I will post my results.

dan

[burst_king]

Sounds like a good idea! Just the other day I was imagining what that would be like. Maybe even with a mahogany body and maple cap. I hope you enjoy it, Dan! I can't wait to hear how it sounds. :)

[Scott Lentz]

Dan are you saying this neck has a mahogany playing suface? If so is the neck including the playing surface finished with a good hard finish? Just curious

[wemedge]

Please post a picture when you get it finished! I'd like to see the overall look of the neck.

wemedge

[burst_king]

I was under the impression that the neck was solid mahogany with a maple skunk-stripe.

"It has a maple "skunkstripe" and the playing surface is, following true "reverse-maple-neck" rules the very mahogany of the neck."

I interpreted the : "following true "reverse-maple-neck" rules the very mahogany of the neck."following true "reverse-maple-neck" rules the very mahogany of the neck." part as saying that since maple necks aren't boarded then neither will the mahogany. That is to say, the very mahogany used in the neck will be the same mahogany for the fretboard, eliminating any need for lamination. :)

[Dan Erlewine]

Scott: Yes, the surface is the mahogany, just as the maple is on a maple-neck. I haven't decided if I even want a finish on it. It is good wood. I may take me chances and: A) Just play the bare wood; B) spray wash-coat viscosity lacquer and not much; C) use a wipe-on varnish or poly-gel.

I know that sounds crazy, and that I should put a good hard finish on it. I might too, but it must be thin.

dan

[Scott Lentz]

Dan as you know mahogany is a great wood but for a playing surface, I would think it a bit on the soft side. And if the neck is not finished that is a open invitation for moisture and wood movement. But you know all this! Building things with different materials doesn't always mean better!

[Ed Rafalko]

If it's the right piece of mahogany it probably woudl be hard enough and stable enough. Mahogany can get really heavy, which is why you spend hours picking through the lumber piles to get the lightweight stuff- but the heavy stuff is more in demand for cabinets and furniture, and it doesn't move much either.
Dandaman, I think a bare fretboard would be cool to try, at least. You'll probably have to close the pores, though, or it'll gunk up bigtime!

[Jimi's Bolero]

is mahogany the same wood they use on boats all the time?

[frey]

Play the hell out of it see what happens.
you can allways resurface it on the next fret job...
Dan i have 2700lbs of mahogany it is martin stock
if you need more ill send some...nice and tan and dry..
hmmmm strat necks huh?

[Dan Erlewine]

Originally posted by Scott Lentz
Dan as you know mahogany is a great wood but for a playing surface, I would think it a bit on the soft side. And if the neck is not finished that is a open invitation for moisture and wood movement. But you know all this! Building things with different materials doesn't always mean better!

You know that I know you are right. I just may wanta' do it anyway. I may seal it, though. Might even seal it with superglue alone. Am considering dipping it in a wood stabilizer and leaving it at that. I don't rush into these things.

As for "better or not," you are right there too. Using different materials will mean "different," however, and I have a hunch that a mahogany neck will ring out well. I also think of a number of (usually Martin) old acoustic vintage necks where the finish is completely worn off, filled with grime and sweat, and is - in a sense - "finished with sweat and human oil." These customers don't want the neck finish altered, and if it isn't sticky and dirty, the feel is silky.

Then too, at my first Dallas show I saw a fellow playing at a booth with a harp player (and I have looked for this guy ever since with no luck) that was playing original KILLER blues on a vintage Strat that was faded, beat, dirty, perhaps Fiesta Red? It was the color of one Pee Wee Crayton had on an album. Anyhow the neck finish was gone. The maple was so funky and dirty that it was almost disgusting, but he played stuff I will never forget, and when he let me handle the guitar I really liked the feel of worn dirty wood.

It was not sticky. I dunno, I may seal only the fretboard. It is just an experiment in playability and feel. Plus, it's only a neck, and I should know early-on if it's working.

Thanks Scott, I consider it an honor that you take the time and interests for these responses!

dan

[PatentAppliedFor]

Originally posted by Jimi's Bolero
is mahogany the same wood they use on boats all the time?

that would be teak

[Jimi's Bolero]

oops :)

reason I thought of it is it must be pretty resistant to oil & sweat & water etc.....for those high-tide surf gigs...... :)

anyone ever make a neck out of teak? how is it for a "tone" wood?

sorry for the oddball/off-topic post...

[Ed Rafalko]

Originally posted by PatentAppliedFor



that would be teak

They don't build boats out of teak in the Carribbean. Mahogany comes from the Caribbean, that's what they build boats out of down there. Any Gulf Coast state will have hundreds more Mahogany boats than teak. You see a lot more teak on the west coast and Pacific Northwest, because Teak comes from the Pacific Golden Triangle.

Of course, for the last 25 or 30 years the vast majority of boats have been built from fiberglass or epoxy resin of some kind. THey'r eusually panelled with teak or mahogany.

[Drak]

I have the same problem with a Paduak neck I bought from Warmoth.

I'm finishing it now, and have the 'board taped off for raw use, but I get the feeling that it isn't 'oily' enough to keep out finger grime/moisture, and am tempted to pull the tape off and spray the whole thing, 'board and all, but I don't rush into this stuff either, as of yet, it's still taped off.

The rest of it is looking Boss. I'm using catalyzed lacquer on it.

Only thing, if I do decide to spray the 'board, the deep pores of the Paduak will show up, as I don't plan on filling them (black pore filler maybe?) and I don't intend on spraying and sanding back, (not on an already fretted fretboard! arghh!) but the black pore filler has me curious, sounds like it might be a neat look, but I'd HATE to screw it up and have to sand it all back...

Hmmmmmmmm........

Should I just leave it raw then?

[jcs]

well i use tung oil to seal fretboards...is this wrong or a crime or something? i have great luck on rosewood boards with tung oil...(not maple)............i have a solid maple san dimas strat body(birdseye maple) that i would like to try a mahogany neck to add some warmth to.......all i have to say is, dan, follow your instincts!!! i experiment with my tokai and fernandes guitars all of the time!! a lot of fun,aint it now ...........jcs

[Stike]

I recently put a mahogany neck(P. Ferro board though) on an alder Tele cut body and the thing sounds great. I can't really attribute it to any one factor but the end result is great. Lone Firebird mini in the bridge, this thing covers a lot of ground well. Hope yours kicks arse as well.