Deluxe Reverb Amp Shielding

[Yreva]

I bought a new DRRI and the output transformer was flopping around dangling by one screw. I had to pull the chassis to get to the transformer and screw the other side down. My question is, upon pulling the chassis I noticed that the aluminum shielding in the top of the cabinet was partially peeled back, probably when I removed the chassis. I’d like to repair or replace the shielding, but how important is it? I’ve looked around and can’t find any specs on exactly what is used. I’m not noticing any extraneous noise. I’ve seen shielding in guitar cavities but wasn’t aware it was used in amps. Any advice or comments would be appreciated.
Mark

[Michael Smith]

All of my old Fender amps have shielding in the top of the cabinet. You can staple it back down (you may have to tap on the staples with a small hammer, depending on how strong your staple gun is.

My 1977 Deluxe Reverb's shielding was pretty torn up when I bought it last year, but I got it fastened down properly again. If you remove the chassis from the cabinet while the amp is on it's side (so the chassis is vertical), you may have an easier time once your shielding is fastened down again.



Someone's careless removal of the chassis in the past also bent the faceplate, but I was able to get it fixed with a couple strips of metal and wood blocks with c-clamps.

[Yreva]

Michael,
Thanks for your reply. This must be a pretty common issue. I was very careful and did try turning the amp on its side, but there was no way the chassis was coming out without catching on the shielding. It would be nice to find a resource for the exact material Fender uses; but I haven’t been able to find any. It would also be nice if Fender would fasten the transformer down with two screws instead of one and leaving it dangling. Thanks again for your input. Maybe someone else will chime in here.
Mark

[Don]

Is the shielding adhesive backed aluminum? In the old days, they used metal screen material (like the screens in windows) stapled in. You could do the same.

[Michael Smith]

Michael,
Thanks for your reply. This must be a pretty common issue. I was very careful and did try turning the amp on its side, but there was no way the chassis was coming out without catching on the shielding. It would be nice to find a resource for the exact material Fender uses; but I haven’t been able to find any. It would also be nice if Fender would fasten the transformer down with two screws instead of one and leaving it dangling. Thanks again for your input. Maybe someone else will chime in here.
Mark

I believe the shielding material is just sheet aluminum. You could probably get some aluminum flashing at Home Depot and cut it to size if your's is too damaged to fasten back down again.

It's a shame that your transformer wasn't properly secured. Check all of the jacks and pots on your amp. From what I understand, they are almost never tight from the factory.

[Michael Smith]

Here is a photo of the shielding on my 1979 Vibro Champ. They used quite a few staples, but didn't get all of them close to the edge of the aluminum, which could cause the chassis to catch on it. And a few of the staples could stand to be driven in a little further. I currently have the Vibro Champ chassis in a 2 x 10 cabinet I built for it, and it is unshielded. I don't have any noise problems with it, but it could depend on the location it is being used.

[Bill Moore]

Back in the day the shielding was really needed, especially with all the neon in the bars!
My DR and Twin builds aren't shielded, and so far, no problems.

[Michael Smith]

Is the shielding adhesive backed aluminum? In the old days, they used metal screen material (like the screens in windows) stapled in. You could do the same.

One of my amps has the screen shielding. I think it's the 1968 Bassman.

[phantomman]

Back in the day the shielding was really needed, especially with all the neon in the bars!

And the two-conductor non-grounded power cable.