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Thread: Changing from 9s to 10s

  1. #1

    Changing from 9s to 10s

    Hi All - long time
    I got a strat with 9s and I like the feel of 10s
    I wanna up the gauge to 010s
    Aside from intonation, do I have to mess with string height much ?
    What about tremolo spring tension - should I add a spring?
    I like 1-2 step note whammy bends
    Neck adjustments
    Is there an order to things
    I havent done this in years

    Any help or advice/instructions appreciated
    Stratocaster-ghettoblaster
    www.MySpace.com/EdMcLaughlin

  2. #2

    from 9s to 10s

    Hi All - long time
    I got a strat with 9s and I like the feel of 10s
    I wanna up the gauge to 010s
    Aside from intonation, do I have to mess with string height much ?
    What about tremolo spring tension - should I add a spring?
    I like 1-2 step note whammy bends
    Neck adjustments
    Is there an order to things
    I havent done this in years

    Any help or advice/instructions appreciated
    Stratocaster-ghettoblaster
    www.MySpace.com/EdMcLaughlin

  3. #3

    Re: Changing from 9s to 10s

    just realized I should post this in the tech forum
    Off I go .......
    Stratocaster-ghettoblaster
    www.MySpace.com/EdMcLaughlin

  4. #4
    Forum Member Mesotech's Avatar
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    Re: from 9s to 10s

    There shouldn't be a lot of difference between the two and you might not have to do anything. If you do need to make any adjustments, it'll probably only be adjusting the claw to compensate for the increased string tension of the heavier gague strings. Yet, that's pretty much only if you're using the trem in a floating mode (so that you can bend up and down). Once the tensions are reset to equal, the rest of the setup 'should' be the same. Of course, if your intonation was slightly on the verge of being out, then the gague change might make it worse, and you'll wind up needing to readjust that. If the neck was set to have zero relief, the additional tension might pull some relief into it, and you might need to adjust the truss rod to compensate. If the nut wasn't properly cut for 10's, you might need to make adjustments there, and it you do, you might find yourself also readjusting string height. The only way to know for sure what adjustments you'll need to make is to make the change and tweak from there.
    POO DAT!!!

  5. #5
    Forum Member ronworld's Avatar
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    Re: Changing from 9s to 10s

    Do it....Do it....!
    You shouldn't have have to change anything from 9 to 10's Certainly not add a spring. There is a little extra string which will pull the bridge forward a bit,so you may depending on taste, need to tighten the springs up a little. The Nut should be fine unless it was particularly cut for 9's The truss rod will be fine. The extra tension will pull very sightly forward, but not enough to need anything done about.
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  6. #6

    Re: Changing from 9s to 10s

    I DID have a concern about the nut

    Do I put on one string at a time ?
    Then adjust the bridge?
    I think it will be pulling, no ?
    It DID come with an extra spring
    SHould I put it on before I start ?
    Stratocaster-ghettoblaster
    www.MySpace.com/EdMcLaughlin

  7. #7
    Forum Member Mesotech's Avatar
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    Re: Changing from 9s to 10s

    No real 'need' to use the exrta spring. Add it if you want, but it's not a requirement.

    Put all strings on and tune up before you adjust anything. Prior to pulling off the old strings, take note of how the bridge is sitting in relationship to the body. Take note of whether it is sitting flat against the body, or is raised above the body and by how much. To achieve the most neutral setup in the end, you'll want to match this adjustment as close as possible after the string change (this is where you adjust the claw to make the adjustment). The larger string gauge will pull the bridge away from the body more than it sits with the lighter gauge strings. You would tighten the claw to bring the bridge back down again (it shouldn't take much adjustment and you'll need to retune after each claw adjustment to see the real effect of the adjustment). This is kind of a balancing act. You adjust the claw to where it looks right, then retune and find you went too much once the string tension is back after tuning. Then you undo some of the adjustment, retune and find you went too much the other way. It's best to make small 1/8 turns of the claw screws to avoid overshooting the adjustment.

    I don't know what your concerns about the nut are, but if it was ok before, it should still be pretty close. If the nut is fubar already, you'll want to address that issue from the start while all of the strings are off. A poorly cut nut can cause all sort of setup woes causing unnessary adjustments to string height, neck relief, and intonation in an attempt to compensate.
    POO DAT!!!

  8. #8

    Re: Changing from 9s to 10s

    Thanks Mesotec - I'll give it a go
    Stratocaster-ghettoblaster
    www.MySpace.com/EdMcLaughlin

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