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Thread: RoHS solder

  1. #1
    Forum Member CzarSketch's Avatar
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    RoHS solder

    Hi all,

    I'm repairing my Blackheart right now (huge chunk of solder chipped off one of the OT inputs) and am using proper RoHS solder to go along with the fact that the amp is new. I'm noticing that the pads are not nearly as shiny as lead-based solder. Is this normal? I can't for the life of me get them to flow any hotter. Should they be getting shiny like lead-based solder? thanks!

    czar.

  2. #2
    Forum Member Don's Avatar
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    Re: RoHS solder

    Quote Originally Posted by CzarSketch View Post
    I'm noticing that the pads are not nearly as shiny as lead-based solder.
    Yes. This is normal. Why are you using RoHS solder? Tin lead solder is compatible. I'll use it as long as I have it.

  3. #3
    Forum Member CzarSketch's Avatar
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    Re: RoHS solder

    had some laying around, i've used up all my tin/lead, actually! thanks!

    czar.

  4. #4
    Forum Member yankeerob's Avatar
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    Re: RoHS solder

    This a common problem - until I'm actually threatened with death by hanging for using 60/40 that's precisely what I'm going to use - unfortunately there are quite a few different types of 'lead-free' solder - none of which seem to do the job anywhere near as good as good ol' 60/40... Anyway - as I don't see my amp going back into the ground in the next 40-50 yrs and can't see us saving the planet by using LF solder I'm going carry on using 60/40 until I get arrested

  5. #5
    Forum Member CzarSketch's Avatar
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    Re: RoHS solder

    Yep, I'm definitely of the mindset that "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"--especially with something that doesn't work as well. But as i'm young enough to change my ways and the local electronics store has stopped carrying lead solder, AND my amp is brand new and thus RoHS compliant and I don't like mixing... I just don't like that idea.

  6. #6
    Forum Member Don's Avatar
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    Re: RoHS solder

    Quote Originally Posted by yankeerob View Post
    This a common problem - until I'm actually threatened with death by hanging for using 60/40 that's precisely what I'm going to use - unfortunately there are quite a few different types of 'lead-free' solder - none of which seem to do the job anywhere near as good as good ol' 60/40... Anyway - as I don't see my amp going back into the ground in the next 40-50 yrs and can't see us saving the planet by using LF solder I'm going carry on using 60/40 until I get arrested
    Same here.

  7. #7
    Forum Member yankeerob's Avatar
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    Re: RoHS solder

    Well - as I've had to come into compliance with a number of very stringent European standards - to get into places such as Scandinavia for example - I have actually found something that has been right under our noses the whole time but is not commonly available through the normal distribution channels...

    Read this first - http://www.dklmetals.co.uk/PDF%20Fil...torfiction.pdf - it's a bit of a read but the long and short of it is that the elements that are combined in most lead-free solders cool at differing rates and they tend to separate out as they do so... making a 'non-eutectic' compound in the process which is awful looking and prone to fracture...

    The solution is Superior SN100C - which is manufactured under licence by a handful of companies around the world... for us it's DKL Metals and it's distributed by a company called Surclean here in the UK... worth a look - we're awaiting samples and will post results...
    If I could find a road to get away it wouldn't be too soon....... Shipwreck Moon.......

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