That's correct. The physical position of the knobs is ignored when a patch is recalled, except the master volume, which isn't programmable. When you move a knob, then the pre-programmed setting is over-ridden and the sound reflects the physical position of that knob, but the other knobs are still ignored (until they're moved).
I also have a refurb 60VTX from MF, and I'm favorably impressed. :)
Yes, and this is also true for the patches on the AD30VT. It can be confusing, because you could have the volume set to (say) 8 in the patch, but showing 3 on the volume knob when you switch the patch in. Now, if you decide you want to adjust things a bit and put the volume up, twisting the volume from 3 to (say) 5 will actually result in a volume _decrease_ (because you've effectively switched it down from 8 to 5!)Originally Posted by Jack Gilvey
Once you figure out what the rules are, it's easy to understand what's going on, but I think this is one area they should have put a bit more effort into explaining in the manual (or just designing the interface a bit more thoughfully in the first place). I think one of the Fender amps (GDEC maybe?) have little leds that light up around the knob showing what the preset value has been applied, and turning the knob has no effect until you reach the lit preset value. A friendlier user interface design. (Probably increase the price, though.)
-Mark
Just remember when changing a preset value, you have to move the knob enough to 'capture' the old preset first. A slight twist of the knob won't do anything.
A friend in need is a good reason to screen your calls.
Thanks, guys, sounds good.
I tihnk that makes sense from a design standpoint, since you wouldn't want the situation Mark describes above, in which you intuitively turn the knob UP, but wind up at value lower than the preset. I guess you'd have to remember what the preset is in order to know how far you'd have to go, though, leading to Mark's point about a thoughtful interface. :)Just remember when changing a preset value, you have to move the knob enough to 'capture' the old preset first. A slight twist of the knob won't do anything.
Cool. I figured these guys are gigging with this small combo, and it sounds good at volume, so why not save some weight? Now for the foot controller...I also have a refurb 60VTX from MF, and I'm favorably impressed. :)
Someone who seems to be the real E.E. posts over on the LP Forum, but I can't e-mail or PM him to invite him over here to tell us what he uses them for, if at all. :)While I can't see what Rundgren is playing through, the Marshall logos on E.E.'s head/cab are clearly visible.
Probably is. EE switched over from endorsing Gretsch to Gibson at the beginning of the year or so. Fezz would know for sure.
Several guitars in different colors
Things to make them fuzzy
Things to make them louder
orange picks
I received my AD60VTX yesterday. It's even prettier than in the pics. :) I haven't gotten to even turn it on yet, but I did get to read the manual while feeding the baby in the wee hours. Apparently, the "Original Value" LED will light up or shut off briefly (depending on its current state) when the preset value is reached on any of the programmable knobs. Still not ideal, I suppose, but better than the pure guess I had assumed.I guess you'd have to remember what the preset is in order to know how far you'd have to go, though, leading to Mark's point about a thoughtful interface. :)
Actually, it works very well. It's a typical control on a modeling anything.
Make copies of the setting page in the back of the book and write down your settings. That way if you have to reboot to default you can recreate your settings easily.
I didn't do that at first, but went back and did it later. It took about 1/2 hour to copy down my 12 sounds using the original value light.
Guitar Trader sells the VC-4 for $159, $20 less than everyone else. I bought mine from Music 123 on a no payment/90 days deal and they price matched, plus free shipping. I like the VC-4, the VC-12 has more features but it's too cumbersome on stage.
A friend in need is a good reason to screen your calls.
Yep, the Yamaha DG series worked the same way. It's too bad they gave up working on those in favor of the Magic Stomps. The overall tonality of those was nice, but they lacked depth, and the real knobs on there were very cool. The MS series gives up all the control without going to a computer. Yech.
Several guitars in different colors
Things to make them fuzzy
Things to make them louder
orange picks
Been tooling with it a bit this morning (not optimally, even at the 1 watt setting I needed to keep the MV at under 1/4...this thing's loud) and am pretty amazed at how different the various amps sound (Line6 models, for example, all sound pretty similar to me, and comparatively much colder). I have no idea if they're accurate to real specimens, but they sound like I want them to. It nails my memory of the one amp model I have some experience with, the JCM 800. And the "Sweet Child" preset is loads of fun with my Les Paul's neck pup. :)
Yeah, I can see how the OV light can be very handy, and the setup is just fine once you play with it a bit. On the whole, I like the way it's set up, I find it pretty intuitive. The manual is also excellent. I think I'm going with the larger controller, and it apparently allows offloading and storing of presets which would be handy in case of re-boot.
I did notice that at the very low MV levels I was using the volume tended to jump around, suddenly getting quite then loud...anyone notice this? Also, the power cord doesn't seem to want to grab to surely onto the chassis. Maybe these are re-furb problems.
I wish the tremolo could be set a little slower...for "Born On the Bayou"...
Sweet rendition, nailed the groove. Nice.
Actually, the speed is fine...I was imagining it much slower than it really is in the song...
Er, those are problems. I hate to say this, send it back.
A friend in need is a good reason to screen your calls.
Jack et al:
Here are my 4 main amp settings, dial them up and see if you like them!
I'm not sure if these will work on the 30/50 etc. VT's, I don't know what all amp models you have. You should be able to get them real close.
Keep the master at about 6 or less on the twin model so you don't get any tube saturation.
Let me know what you think!
A friend in need is a good reason to screen your calls.
I'll work it for a day or two to see if it repeats or maybe was something I did. Such a pain to send back, but if it ain't perfect I'll just get a new one.
I'll give those settings a whirl later. It'd be cool if we could use that java stuff from valvetronix.net to trade presets. Or we could just manipulate the page and save that portion as a pic:
Sounds like he switched forum endorsements too...
:-)
Master of Disaster on the Stratocaster
Just curious: I usually see it recommended to keep the MV dimed, but don't the V and MV do the same thing in terms of driving the input to the VR? I mean, if a cranked MV and given setting of V results in a given voltage input to the VR (and given output from the speaker), wouldn't a cranked V and lowered MV setting resulting in the same voltage being input to the VR/overall ouput result in the same amount of tube "saturation"?
I guess what I'm thinking is that merely setting the MV all the way up doesn't mean the VR is getting higher voltage, it depends on the V setting. The VR is part of the power amp, so only by increasing voltage to it (and volume from the speaker for a given power setting) can you increase tube saturation, no?
I know that V is programmable, and so functions differently, just wondering how tone is effected as I haven't really gotten to crank mine...
Okay, it isn't the amp(s), but I'd like to add a big A+ for the ToneLab. There was used but mint condition ToneLab at Music-Go-Round for a great price when I picked up my Thinline Tele, and I figured I'd pick it up to play around.
Blah blah blah, the presets suck, etc. I'm no stranger to digital gear, so I ignored them after a couple banks grated on my ears. Within a minute I dialed in a phenomenal clean tone that just amazes me. The PODs couldn't touch this clean sound.
I wasn't crazy about any of the overdriven sounds. I put together one I liked better than my PODs or Roland/Boss stuff ever did, but it still didn't thrill me.
Then, just for grins, I plugged my pedalboard (of pedals I mean) into the ToneLab, using the clean patch I'd written on the ToneLab as the "amp," with the output going to one of my JBL Eons. I had zero expectation of this working since I'd tried it with my previous modelers, only to have my OD pedals immediately overload the input buffer.
For some reason, either good gain staging or a really impressive compression circuit at the input stage, it worked like a dream, especially with the FD2 or Dyna-Comp engaged. It sounded just like those effects into a decent amp.
In the final analysis, as I found with any modeler I've used, I find the single-coil guitars lose more in the translation than humbucker guitars. With the ToneLab though, that difference is far smaller. For less than two bills, I got myself a nice little backup and a more-than-acceptable studio solution for when the kids are sleeping.
Kudos Vox (or Korg, or whoever)!
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote