Converting to hardtail

[FrankJohnson]

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/srs7/...base_id/132090

I really like a hardtail over tremolo........

I really like my Jimmie Vaughan

Will this be a direct fit on my JV?

I have seen a couple of other kits, but this looks nice to me.

Comments, questions, Give a Shits?

[fezz parka]

IMO, it's a waste of $50 bucks. Lose the bar, use five springs, crank down the claw, and block the sucker like a Clapton.

[FrankJohnson]

Density and mass impact on sound - thoughts.....

I like what the BAII did for my bass, I wonder if this would be a similar variation, or limited difference if any?

[fezz parka]

I'll bet there's more density and mass with the original setup. The only real difference with this one is you'll be out $50.

[DoobieK]

I like the idea of having something that will be less likely to move around. Having said that, I have blocked a few PRS, G&L and Strats and really haven't had any issues. I remove the springs and put a piece of wood behind the trem block, with a very small bead of glue or silicone to keep it from shifting. The strings keep the correct tension and reacts more like a real stop tail than using the springs and transfering the pressure and vibration the opposite direction it wants to go.

[soapbarstrat]

I think with that one in the link, you'll be drilling two holes, one of which would probably show if you converted back to the original bridge.

[LesPauloholic]

I'll bet there's more density and mass with the original setup. The only real difference with this one is you'll be out $50.

And it looks like you'll have a bunch of exra holes in your guitar too. It says it "covers" the existing holes... it doesn't say it uses them... I bet you add 4 new holes to your axe.

If you were building a hard-tail from scratch and all you had was a trem routed body this thing *might* be cool. Those saddles might sound ok, but the vintage style saddles on your JV strat are probably better.

I think I'd block it off too or crank the screws. At least that is reversible.

[tenebrae]

I tend to agree with the above posts: Clapton it! Save your money. If you ever decide to "move the instrument on", it's unmolested.

Tenebrae

PS: I ran a blocked Strat for years with zero issues, I liked it fine.

[RedRain]

Block it like Fezz mentions or hit Warmoths "thrift Shop" and grab a hardtail replacement body.

[Offshore Angler]

There's a Trem-setter type of device now that blocks the trem. I forget the name of it but it installs like a trem-setter and locks the bridge. Looks like a decent deal, but why not just block it? It's quick, easy, and doesn't mess up you guitar. Or grow some balls, be a man and play a Tele. <<Ducks>>

[Tele-Bob]

I always put the extra springs on my Strats and have no trouble with tuning stability or any other issues for that matter.

[tonemonkey]

Yup, 5 springs bolt down the claw and add a bit of hadwood to stop all trem movement. It worked great for me, I now have a strat that looks normal, sounds perfectly stratty, and yet doesn't have the facility I don't use or the instabilities that facility causes.

[fezz parka]

Or grow some balls, be a man and play a Tele. <<Ducks>>

:hee

[NeoFauve]

Density and mass impact on sound - thoughts.....

I like what the BAII did for my bass, I wonder if this would be a similar variation, or limited difference if any?

Unless the "string-thru" aspect of that bridge extends down into the trem rout, you'll be minus springs and the block, which would be less mass. Then you're just screwing a plate over and empty hole.
Plus you need to at least 2 holes that would be visible if anyone ever wated to put it back to stock.

Do the 5 tight springs trick. It's built into the design.:yay
Plus you get that ever so slight touch of natural reverb in the body.

[MMP]

I blocked my bridge with a solid piece of brass. It's dense and transfers sound like crazy. ;)


________
"Can you hear me now?'

[Guitar Ray]

I'm actually thinking about going the Warmoth replacement body route, since I like the thinner nut measurement of my SRV Strat but want the narrower spacing of the modern bridge. Actually Warmoth also makes a narrow spaced hardtail Strat bridge, so I think my SRV neck and electronics will find itself on just such a body. I'm thinking Sonic or Dauphne blue for color.

[CocoTone]

I always put the extra springs on my Strats and have no trouble with tuning stability or any other issues for that matter.

I`m with T-B on this one. The springs and the vintage style bridge is what gives the Strat its `Stratiness`. The springs almost give it a built in reverb-like airyness to the tone. To my ears, Hardtail Strats sound completely different, as do American standard bridges, and (gasp) locking bridgesand that sorta shit. Its just wrong!!:bug

CT.:ahem

[CocoTone]

OPPS,,,sorry double post!!:bug


CT.

[Guitar Ray]

I`m with T-B on this one. The springs and the vintage style bridge is what gives the Strat its `Stratiness`. The springs almost give it a built in reverb-like airyness to the tone. To my ears, Hardtail Strats sound completely different, as do American standard bridges, and (gasp) locking bridgesand that sorta shit. Its just wrong!!:bug

CT.:ahem

I already have the five springs on my vintage bridge. The problem for me is the wide string spacing on vintage bridges. It is much wider than the string spacing on a TOM. What I'm going for here is consistency of string spacing under my pick hand. I want to be able to shift back and forth from my TOM equipped guitar to my Strat without losing pick accuracy.