Strat setup, can-o-worms and I've run out of high E strings (breaking)
'02 Jimmie Vaughan Strat. Sounds killer, plays well, but the bridge was floating too high. That's the way the PO set it up. So I read up on all the Strat setup web stuff and took a crack at it. Between getting the bridge to float 1/8" off the deck, getting the action back where I want it (medium) and working with the truss rod to set relief, I'm going :arhhh:
I've broken three high E strings adjusting the saddle, even when slacking off the string a little. The strings are breaking at the bend coming out of the bridge plate. Removing the saddle it's obvious that the string hole in the trem block and the bridge plate don't line up well at all, giving the string a sharp edge to run over. A small file did nothing to remove metal so I'm moving to the dremel tool to smooth the transition, much like cleaning up the feed ramp on my old Colt 1911.
As far as string buzz, it's there. More than I want. I've shimmed the front of the neck by putting a medium pick between the neck and body, near the edge of the body, and the buzz cleared up almost completely. It's buzzing mostly above the 10th fret. Raising the action more helps clear it up.
Should have just left things alone! Advice please! :bonk After cleaning up the trem block / bridge plate edges and polishing the saddles a bit, I may just float the bridge higher like it was before. I did remove the pick I shimmed the neck with btw.
TT
Re: Strat setup, can-o-worms and I've run out of high E strings (breaking)
Quote:
Originally Posted by
TT100
A small file did nothing to remove metal so I'm moving to the dremel tool to smooth the transition, much like cleaning up the feed ramp on my old Colt 1911.
+1
A carbide grinding bit, followed up by the jeweler's file then some crocus cloth should do the trick. If you have an opti-visor, they will be helpful to de-bur and polish things.
As for the string buzz, do you have the neck relief correctly set? If so, use a 24" steel framing square to determine if the frets are level.
Re: Strat setup, can-o-worms and I've run out of high E strings (breaking)
Strats will have a little string slap which is different than a buzz. If you can't hear it through the amp and the string sustains don't worry about it.
But I agree with phantom man, check the frets with a straightedge. Also, what's the neck radius on a JV?
Re: Strat setup, can-o-worms and I've run out of high E strings (breaking)
Neck radius is 9.5"
Thanks for the tips, I'll take some pics and post along the way. Going to buy a bunch of E strings today. What is string slap?
TT
Re: Strat setup, can-o-worms and I've run out of high E strings (breaking)
Quote:
Originally Posted by
TT100
Neck radius is 9.5"
What is string slap?
TT
To me it's the sound of the string hitting the fret and bouncing off with no buzz...HTH
Re: Strat setup, can-o-worms and I've run out of high E strings (breaking)
Get a short electrical wire. Strip off about 1" from the conductor. Insert your string through the block/bridge; install the plastic sleeve by the bridge plate that's sharp. Easy fix.. from SRV's tech tip.
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps11be134a.jpg
Re: Strat setup, can-o-worms and I've run out of high E strings (breaking)
Quote:
Originally Posted by
kaicho8888
That's a great idea! Last night I removed the bridge, stripped it and worked the holes with a dremel tool. (didn't have a carbide bit though) Didn't even put a mark on the area of the saddle where the string comes through. Hard stuff!
TT
Re: Strat setup, can-o-worms and I've run out of high E strings (breaking)
Now you know why it takes a carbide bit.
:biglaugh:
Re: Strat setup, can-o-worms and I've run out of high E strings (breaking)
The screws that hold the bridge plate to the body are sticking out way too high and need to be socked down some more.
Low enough so the bridge can't climb the screws, but not so low that they restrict movement.
Re: Strat setup, can-o-worms and I've run out of high E strings (breaking)
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Telenator
The screws that hold the bridge plate to the body are sticking out way too high and need to be socked down some more.
Low enough so the bridge can't climb the screws, but not so low that they restrict movement.
You're referring to kaicho8888's pic. I noticed that as well, but have also run across setup advice (no shortage of on the interweb) suggesting the screws be set that way. The idea being that the two outer screws act as pivots and hold the bridge plate down while the inner four are just pivots.
I decided to punt on my Strat. I ordered a Strat setup book ( :bh ) and got to work on my Tele. Years ago I messed it up just to my general liking but have learned a thing or two wrestling my Strat. The lack of trem on the Tele removed that nuisance from the equation and I was able to remove the neck shim, use the tilt adjustment and get the relief action just to my liking. The strings now actually follow the FB radius which truly is weird.
Phantomman, glad I can entertain! If not with my playing then with my ham-fisted attempts at dremel surgery. Carbide bit is on my weekend Lowe's shopping list.
Thanks!
TT
