Ok. The new MIM I got needs a lot of tweaking.
The first issue is the truss rod.
How much clearance (when pressed on the first and last fret) do you usually set? (in mm please :) )
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Ok. The new MIM I got needs a lot of tweaking.
The first issue is the truss rod.
How much clearance (when pressed on the first and last fret) do you usually set? (in mm please :) )
A good place to start is at the Fender specs, then adjust to taste from there.
STRATOCASTER ADJUSTMENT AND CARE
Code:Neck Radius
7.25" .012" (0.3 mm)
9.5" to 12" .010" (0.25 mm)
15" to 17" Relief .008" (0.2 mm)
The " 9.5" to 12" .010" (0.25 mm)" setup doesn't work at all. You have to raise the saddles very high to get less buzz. Any suggestions?
Maybe someone can describe how he/she sets up a strat? (from the beginning to the end :Banjo: ) The guitar I'm struggling with is a MIM standard.
(I used to play Ibanez guitars. 2 screws, low action, flat fretboard.... - no worries. But they suck :D So I'm struggling with a strat now :salud: .)
P.S
No, I won't take it somewhere to get it up and running. I want to do everything myself. Once I do it right myself - I will know how to do it right (I think :D).
It sounds as if you might need to shim the neck to bring the saddles back down if you want that relief setting.
I used fezz's advise except I didnt need a shim,but sometimes ya do,
but in your case I think I would ask FEZZ..
He knows the strat.
My MIM 60th anni set up nice with his advise..
Well, I'll tell you how I do it: Full on seat-of-the-pants.
First I set the truss rod so that when pressing the first fret (low E string) with my left pointer finger, and the body fret with my right pinky, I tap the string on the 6th or 7th fret with my right pointer finger, and if it "feels" like it's close enough (.3mm is probably about what I'm feeling for).
The I set the action on all strings (in an arc, trying to visually follow the fretboard radius) as low as I can before the strings:
A)buzz
B)"fret out" or "choke out" when I bend up 3 or 4 half-steps up on the G, B, and high E strings.
Then I set the intonation by ear, very s-l-o-w-l-y and c-a-r-e-f-u-l-l-y, so that the G, B, and high E strings are just ever so slightly flat when fretted, but the other strings are dead on. Don't ask me why, nobody ever told me to do this but it works perfectly for me. YMMV.
I set up a Strat I bought a year or so ago like this, intending to just get it close enough until I took it to my tech, but never had to take it in. It sounded and played about as good as my ES335 he did for me.
Ok. I adjusted the truss rod so the neck is a little more bowed and the string height on the 17th fret (without fretting the first fret) is about 3/32. Should I lower the action or is it right for a strat?
EDIT:
Forgot to mention that whit this setup there's no fret buzz or "choke outs".
If it feels right, it is right--as long as it doesn't buzz or "choke out", and the intonation can be set correctly.
If you like the action where it is and there aren't any problems, I'd say leave it.
It's kinda high, but I think I will get 10-46 on it, adjust the neck a little and it should be fine :)
Who plays blues and even a strat with 9-42 :D ??
yep.
I do the following as a starting point on all my guitars:
I tend to work in 64ths as that is what my little metal ruler uses (I HIGHLY reccomend you get one)
1.) make sure the guitar is tuned the way I will play it
2.) adjust truss rod so that there is 1/64th of relief at the 8th fret (from top of fret to string bottom) when the low E is fretted at the first and last frets
3.) adjust the action so that the low E is at 5/64ths and the high E is at 4/64ths measured at the 14th fret, once again from top of fret to string bottom. The transition is gradual between the two.
4.) set intonation on all strings so a lightly plucked 12th fret note is equal to the open string with the middle pickup on and volume and tone all full up
5.) re-check the truss-rod and action and intonation and make sure that any changes didn't affect other settings
6.) set the pickup height to taste. I measure from the pole pieces to the bottom of the strings when fretted at the last fret. I start with 7/64ths treble and 8/64ths bass on the neck and middle and 5/64ths and 4/64ths on the neck and then adjust from there by ear.
7.) play the guitar and do some typical bends etc. and and adjust the action if needed for any buzzing or choking out
8.) re-verify intonation
I have found this works for me across a great range of manufacturers regardless of neck radius and I like a consistent action across my guitars.
Good luck!
Thanks Sting7777 :) I will try your suggestions.
The last couple of days I've been trying a lot of different methods and settings. The more I try - the better are the results :)
I think Jimi Hendrix played with 9-42 (tuned a half step down) :D
No problem. After using 11's for a long time - I recently switched to 10's after hearing some stories about joint issues etc. down the line. I really don't like how light 9's are but 10's seem to feel as good as the 11's and won't give me carpal tunnel or whatever when I'm still rocking out in old age homes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Floyd.lt
:bluesbros
Is 2/32 a good gap at the 17th fret (without any capo's and stuff) ?
Or should I lower it more?
You're getting too hung up on numbers. How does the guitar feel to you? 2/32 is a low action IMO. There isnt any one set up that works for all players, you've got to find what works the best for you and your playing style. If the action feels good where it is now, leave it.
I also just got a MIM strat and am having a little trouble with the action. I set everything you would usually check, and it's a little higher than I would like (about 3/32 at the 17th) but I can't get it any lower w/o fret buzz. It has a little bit of buzz the way it is, but I don't want to go any higher. Is there something I'm missing, aside from having a shop file and level my frets?
Having the frets leveled, crowned an' polished should be the first step in optimizing a guitar's playability......not the last.Quote:
Originally Posted by happilymarried
Use whatever gauge strings that you find you can express yourself well on. Tailor the guitar's setup and the guitar and amp's tone to work with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Floyd.lt
I've found 2/32" at the 17th fret to be low for a Strat. I like it around 2.5/32" with .010" (,25mm) to .012" (,30mm) neck relief. I also like the action to be a little higher at the nut than most.Quote:
Originally Posted by Floyd.lt
Forget about the numbers and do what feels good and what the guitar will allow. They are for reference only. They're a good starting point. Also, I like to measure it when I get it where I like for future reference. Don't get to hung up on them.
Yep....forget numbers....let your fingers do the talking and decide if it's good for you!
I just use a dime to gauge the height on the 12th fret...good starting point.
Is a fret level/crown/polish something that should definitely be done by a pro, or is it possible for an ameteur who's pretty handy to pull it off?
It's part science/part skill/part magic. I know what the procedure entails, but I do not trust my skills to accomplish such a critical operation -- I pay a professional luthier to make this happen. He's very good at what he does and I don't mind paying his fee.Quote:
Originally Posted by happilymarried
Trueing a neck and frets may be likened to pouring a foundation when building a house......it's the crucial first step to getting a quality job IMO.
Yes, a handy amatuer with a few simple tools can do it, but it's best to try it on an inexpensive guitar that you don't mind messing up.Quote:
Originally Posted by happilymarried
On the other hand, I learned by doing it to my Les Paul. It came out great, but what a :da move that could've been!
Would you mind describing the process to me? What tools do I need? I love the sound of my MIM strat, but I did only pay 275 for it used...it's worth an experiment:)
The process is pretty explained above. (by the way, I have a 2000 American Standard Strat, so take this keeping those specs in mind)Quote:
Originally Posted by happilymarried
I'll throw my $0.02 in by saying that I'm another that doesn't go by numbers, I go by feel. I like the action fairly low, but without too much buzz (a tiny bit is OK, it doesn;t really come through the pickups/amp too much) or choke. I do some pretty heavy bends sometimes, so if the G-string doesn't choke until I get it up under the low E, it's fine (yes, I use .010's) or the high-E to the D.
For tools, you really don't need anything other than what it comes with. A truss rod allen key, one for the bridge saddles, and maybe a small phillips-head screwdriver for the pickups.
A good tuner is invaluable. If you want to go by numbers, a metal ruler wih 1/64'ths or MM is needed, or a set of feeler gauges.