'72 Tele Delux RI Factory Screwup

First, hello! I'm new here. Just joined the forums.

The bridge on this Deluxe is pretty crooked from the factory! Is the QC on the Mexican models usually this bad or did mine slip through the cracks?
It actually plays really well and the intonation is good. I didn't even notice for a while until I started looking into shortening the saddle height adjustment screws because they dig into my palm a little.

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...a/IMG_1970.jpg

Compare the alignment of top edge of the bridge to the pickguard and bridge PU which are straight. Yikes!



http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...a/IMG_1971.jpg
Here's the whole thing.

I'm thinking about putting a bridge more like the original '72s on this one now. Any thoughts or suggestions on that?

It might be possible to dowel the holes, drill new ones, an' re-mount the bridge in the correct configuration. It does seem to be a skosh katty-wampus on the body.

AFAIK, that is the original style bridge......it's a Strat hard-tail type. I believe the originals used the cast pot-metal saddles though (the stamped steel types are superior IMO).

Welcome to the TFF

:salud:

My brother had an original Tele Deluxe with the same problem.
How weird is that?

So long as the strings don't fall off the fretboard and the intonation is spot on, why change...? I.e., did you buy it to look at or play, LOL?

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Originally Posted by stratcat55

My brother had an original Tele Deluxe with the same problem.
How weird is that?

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SO maybe they are being true to the original...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gris

So long as the strings don't fall off the fretboard and the intonation is spot on, why change...? I.e., did you buy it to look at or play, LOL?

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Ya, true. I definitely agree. That's probably why I didn't even notice until now. Only reason I would bother to fix it is because I was already planning on taking the bridge apart to either grind down or put in some new saddle height screws. They stick out of the top just enough to scrape my palm up after I play for a while. Kinda thinking about putting a push/pull knob in to split the coils on the bridge pickup too. Maybe I'll just give it an overhaul while it's on the bench.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cdw2000

SO maybe they are being true to the original...

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:up perhaps you are right.

you need to shim the neck if the screws are hanging out that much.

as for the bridge, i'd leave it, unless it really bothers you.

Shimming the neck is a much better solution for a number of reasons.

Specially if you are a player who palms thye bridge a lot, raising the saddles by shimming allows a better palm grip because your strings are higher off the body.

Chuck......Wilko......this is a tilt-neck guitar.

Three-bolt Strat neck, wif the notorious "bullet" truss rod adjust.

It may be possible to dial in the correct neck angle via the set-screw adjustment.

Jus' a thought -- I'll slither back under my rock now.

duh...

three bolt, with tilt. Easy as pie.

(well, actually tricky to get right, but can be done without removing the neck!)

Fender also (or at least used to) make three different height saddle screws...

Yes, this is a 3 bolt neck with the micro-tilt adjustment.

Question regarding that - I'm worried if I use that I will have less contact in the neck pocket and kill some of the acoustic qualities of this guitar. Am I just being paranoid? This one has a really nice ring and good sustain, I think I lucked out in that regard from trying others.

i always take the micro tilt out and shim the normal way. those allen screws have a tendency to loosen and rattle. plus i feel better knowing there is a shim ini the pocket. ymmv. just remember to save that allen screw if you do take it out.

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Originally Posted by cooljuk

Yes, this is a 3 bolt neck with the micro-tilt adjustment.

Question regarding that - I'm worried if I use that I will have less contact in the neck pocket and kill some of the acoustic qualities of this guitar. Am I just being paranoid? This one has a really nice ring and good sustain, I think I lucked out in that regard from trying others.

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Just get a set of shorter screws. They make (or made) them. If they are only a tiny bit high, file them from the bottom and reinsert from the bottom. First I'd check the micro-tilt though. I had a 72 T-Line RI and after I tweaker the micro-tilt, truss and saddles it played like a DREAM for years...

Higher action = better sustain....:sign11:

there's no need for higher action. Set the neck higher, adjust the saddles. the screws won't stick out, the palm muting will be easier.